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John and Carri Holdredge
 
September 6, 2023 | John and Carri Holdredge

A Major Announcement

The Only Constant is Change

Carri and I made our first commercial wine in 1999 and launched the winery in 2001. I’ve spent over a third of my life, and over half my adult life, making wine in “the barn”. As we’ve acknowledged many times, we have been very blessed in this journey; it has surpassed every dream we ever had; but we find ourselves at a crossroads in our life.

The upshot is that Carri and I have decided that our 2022 vintage (currently resting comfortably in barrels) will be the last vintage under our brand, at least for now. We will be moving out of the barn later this year (see below), but because we still have a few 2021 wines and a full vintage of wines from 2022 to release, it will take quite a while longer to fully wind things down. So, we aren’t closing “tomorrow” by any means, but changes are afoot.

I’m sure there are questions, so here are the answers to what I anticipate will be the top 7 questions:

  1. Why are you doing this?

    It’s not really so much any one thing as it is a confluence of things. We are at a stage of life when more than ever we are acutely aware of the need to make the moments count, both as individuals and as a couple. Our kids are chasing their own dreams, and with them on their own, the way we are seeing life has really changed.

    The time commitment for the winery is massive, and though we know that we could hire other people to do the work for us, that has never been how we wanted to approach things. As much as we love the winery, life is short, and we have some other dreams and goals we want to fulfill, and we want to maximize our time together.
     
  2. When Are You Moving Out?

    Our last official day “in the barn” will be August 30th, so we are having the Fall Club Release Party on August 26, 2023. Save the date!!
     
  3. What About Tastings?

    Between now and our last day, we will be open for tasting as always, every weekend except holidays (appointment optional). We aren’t yet sure about tasting after we close, as it involves a more complicated arrangement, but we’ll update things as they develop. Of course, we'll always be able to ship wine, and we'll still have free delivery in Sonoma County.
     
  4. Will there Still be Club Parties After You Move Out of the Barn?

    Yes! We are releasing our 2022 wines on the same schedule as always in December 2023, and March 2024, and a final release in September 2024, and maybe something extra along the way. We will be having club release parties for all these wines – just at different venues. If you can’t make it, we will still have a killer shipping deal, and we’ll still have free delivery in Sonoma County.

    For example, our December 2, 2023 club release party will be held at The Matheson’s “Rooftop 106” in Healdsburg, with our friend Chef Dustin Valette at the helm; it will be a really good time. Save that date too! In a nutshell, the location is changing, but the party will continue.
     
  5. How Good Are The 2022 Vintage Wines?

    I never predict anything until a cork is in the bottle (or even until the cork is pulled out of the bottle), but I’m as excited about these wines as any I’ve made, and we will be bottling some of our (and your) favorites. I try to put everything I have into every harvest, but I can say without hesitation that I gave this one everything I had and then some. It was magical in another way as the entire harvest was made by only our family, with everyone sorting fruit together, Will handling day-to-day work with me, and Gracie will be stepping in to finish them with me this summer. We started this journey as a family winery and making the final vintage the same way just seems fitting.
     
  6. Will You Ever Make Wine Again?

    Winemaking is like a Siren’s song, it’s hard to stay away. I’ve long thought about making a Chablis, or a Barolo, or a Rioja, but our harvest schedules wouldn’t afford it. Since that is now changing, I suppose “never say never” is the best answer.
     
  7. But Aren’t You Going to Miss It?

    In a word, yes. Making wine is truly a special experience, and learning from nature every vintage has been one of the best things in our lives, but what we’ll miss most are seeing the people we consider ourselves fortunate to consider customers and friends. It’s hard to express what an incredible group of people we’ve gotten to know in the last couple of decades - so many different people, from different places and different walks of life, and all with a common thread of just being wonderful people who love Pinot Noir. But the only constant is change, and we are excited about and ready to embrace new challenges and new dreams too, so it will be great.

We look forward to sharing the rest of our journey, and our remaining wines with you.

From our hearts,
John & Carri

Time Posted: Sep 6, 2023 at 9:34 AM Permalink to A Major Announcement Permalink
John and Carri Holdredge
 
August 17, 2021 | John and Carri Holdredge

Huge Acclaim for our 2019 Vintage

Running the Table

Harvest is on its way, and we can’t wait!  Meanwhile, we are about to begin the release of the wines from 2019. We’ve had quite a few people ask about them, and we’ll say plenty as we release each of them.

For the moment, we just received some early reviews of all 11 of our 2019 Pinots from the Wine Enthusiast and from Jeb Dunnuck (formerly with Robert Parker). With a nod to a very old SNL skit with Chevy Chase, we thought we’d share the scores:

98, 97, 97, 96, 95, 95, 95, 95 (and “Editor’s Choice”), 95, 94, 94, 94, 94, 93,93,93, 92, 91

We know you’re wondering which wines received which scores- but you’ll just have to wait as we release them to find out! It’s an incredible testament to the places we are fortunate to work with, and the growers that make it happen. The upcoming September club release, for which we will be sending out a notice shortly, is going to be awesome – but I think December and March will be as well!

Time Posted: Aug 17, 2021 at 7:21 AM Permalink to Huge Acclaim for our 2019 Vintage Permalink
John and Carri Holdredge
 
December 8, 2020 | John and Carri Holdredge

December 2020 Club Letter

Time Posted: Dec 8, 2020 at 7:11 AM Permalink to December 2020 Club Letter Permalink
John and Carri Holdredge
 
September 28, 2020 | John and Carri Holdredge

Fun Developments at the Winery

CELLAR JOY!

We just bottled the 2019 Pinots on August 4th. As always, once everything is in tank for bottling, Carri tastes through the wines to give her final-final blessing. I always talk about how great her palate is, and she proved it again; tasting blind, she identified 9 of the 11 pinots. But it also confirms the wines reflect their place, which says even more.

The 2019s really got some very special cellar attention. Starting in March, I had a lot of cellar work I needed to do, and Gracie offered to help. It was a surprise because other than walking on grapes a few times and assisting with club events more recently, she has never wanted to work in the cellar. I had modest expectations as I do for all beginners, and to say she exceeded them is an understatement; she blew me away, it was like she had been working in a winery for a long time.

I thought she and Carri were pranking me and that she’d been working somewhere for a friend, and spent the first day veering between shaking my head in disbelief and giggling out loud. She’s been a fixture there since, and the “finished” 2019s are very much the product of her spirit too. She is one of the top “beginner” cellar hands I’ve seen in 23 years of commercial winemaking, and while I’m biased, the kid’s a natural. Now, if I can get her to make a wine this year….

Going Live for a Great Cause

I don’t do a lot of webinars – but this Thursday, August 13 at 1 pm PST / 4 pm EST I’m joining Chefs Charlie Palmer and Scott Romano for an Instagram Live Pigs & Pinot Tutorial Series featuring a live cooking demo and wine pairing. All you have to do is check out Charlie’s Instagram @CHEFCHARLIEPALMER. The Pigs & Pinot Tutorial Series supports the Charlie Palmer Collective hourly employees. We’ll be donating 25% of all sales of the 2018 Three Sisters Pinot Noir for the next month for those who want to support the cause; please use the code #pigsandpinot  during checkout so we can track purchases. Restaurant workers have had their livelihoods decimated this year; we’re honored to be able to help Charlie in this effort.

Drink well!
John & Carri

P.S.! We started the wine club just a few years ago, and we’ve reached a milestone of sorts; our club is now fully subscribed. It’s important to us to be sure all club members receive a guaranteed allocation of all wines, and that’s become a real challenge. An extraordinary upcoming release in December brought the point home- we only have enough for one bottle per member- and almost none for ourselves!

So, we’ve started a waiting list for people who want to join the club, but as an existing (“founding”) member you’ll enjoy the same benefits as always (plus anything new we come up with!). We remain grateful to everyone who has supported our little winery, and we hope our wines continue to find a place in your lives, and on your table.

Time Posted: Sep 28, 2020 at 12:30 PM Permalink to Fun Developments at the Winery Permalink
John and Carri Holdredge
 
September 28, 2020 | John and Carri Holdredge

September 2020 Club Letter

Our first grapes arrived on August 26, which marks the beginning of our 20th harvest under our label. That event is eclipsed by the fact that it was also the day Carri and I exchanged legal “I do’s” in front of a judge before eloping to Italy to exchange our actual vows. Those two milestones mean a lot to us, so despite everything that has happened this year (and the past two weeks), we are grateful for the many blessings in our lives. However, some of 2020’s “blessings” [ahem!] are impacting our club release plans. As much as we would love to see everyone, right now, we aren’t able to accommodate a party like we normally do. So, we’re continuing our special offer of $20 shipping on the club shipment, and shipping is included in the price for any order of six (6) or more bottles.

We think this is one of the best sets of wines we’ve ever sent – and can’t wait for you to enjoy them. As always, you can customize your selection, and either add-on to (or change) the wines you receive, or you can do nothing at all and you’ll receive what John has personally selected for you. This shipment includes two new releases and as a club member, you may order additional bottles of these before the remainder is made available to the world.

Best regards,
Carri Holdredge

Time Posted: Sep 28, 2020 at 12:27 PM Permalink to September 2020 Club Letter Permalink
John and Carri Holdredge
 
September 28, 2020 | John and Carri Holdredge

Stunning Critical Acclaim

YOU CHOSE…. WISELY...(Part Deux)

I know, I know; I’ve used that line before, in fact, maybe more than once, but when it’s right, it’s right. We have received the first critical reviews of a few of our 2018 Pinots and to say we are blown away would be an understatement.

 

From Wine Critics
Virginie Boone at the Wine Enthusiast (WE) and Jeb Dunnuck (JD)

Rochioli Vineyard:	96 points (WE); 93 points (JD)   (Sept. 2020 release)
Pratt Sexton: 95 points (WE); 93 points (JD)
Rolling Thunder: 95 points (JD) 94 points (WE)   (Dec. 2020 release)
Petits Cadeaux: 94 points (WE); 91 points (JD)

Rochioli Vineyard

 

Pratt Sexton

 

Rolling Thunder

 

Petits Cadeaux

 
Three Sisters Vineyard: 95 points (WE); 93 points (JD)
Sara Lee's Vineyard: 95 points (WE); 92+ points (JD)
The True: 94 points (JD)
Strawberry Fields: 93 points (WE)

Three Sisters Vineyard

 

Saralee's Vineyard

 

The True

 

Strawberry Fields

Some of these wines were released early to our club members, but are now available for everyone to purchase. Club members will also receive a selection of these wines in their next shipment. 

While you're browsing, check out our other wines available from 2017 which have some pretty impressive reviews as well. Shipping is included on purchases of six (6) or more bottles. Refrigerated shipping is available or we can hold your selection until cooler weather arrives. Let us know!

To you and yours,
John & Carri

Time Posted: Sep 28, 2020 at 12:23 PM Permalink to Stunning Critical Acclaim Permalink
John and Carri Holdredge
 
July 22, 2020 | John and Carri Holdredge

Winery News and Fun Pairings

The Tasting Room and Complimentary Shipping 

For now, we have decided to wait a little while to re-open the tasting room. We are really looking forward to seeing people again, but we are still deciding the best way to make it safe and fun for everyone, and compatible with our layout - which is still a working winery before all else. So, while we are still selling wine, we just aren’t able to do it in person as of yet.

We decided that since we can’t host you right now, the next best thing is to continue to offer complimentary shipping, the price of which is included in any new orders of six (6) or more bottles of wine!

Wine is available for purchase online (www.holdredge.com), and a refrigerated shipping option is available. Of course, we are still providing “safe” curbside pickup at the winery by appointment, so it’s been great to see people, and we have had a lot of fun doing local delivery (Gracie cannot wait to get her license!).

Holdredge Pinot Noir
 
 

The Cheese Course
Our friend Jerry suggested we offer some “cheese guidance”. It was a great idea, as our own summer dinners are often some wine with bread, local cheeses, and a few garden greens with a little backyard lemon and local olive oil. Sure, I might grill the bread, melt the cheese a little, and finish it with a little crumbled bacon and caramelized onions, but I can’t help myself.

We turned to our friend Kate O’Donnell, the Cheese Monger at Big John’s in Healdsburg. Kate is super talented, and came up with some great pairings. Most are available nationally, but if your local specialty store doesn’t have them, they should be able to recommend something similar.

Cheese Course
 

2018 Pratt-Sexton Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir:

Artikass “Hay There!” (a Gouda with truffles from the Netherlands); Point Reyes Cheese Co. “Toma” (cow cheese creamy, buttery with a little zip to finish); and Cypress Grove “Humboldt Fog”, (a soft goat cheese; they also make a “Truffle Tremor” which is similar to the Fog, but has truffles. It’s another great pairing, and we sometimes use it in a potato gratin).

 

2018 Strawberry Fields Russian River Pinot Noir:

“P’tit Basque” (widely available, a hand-made sheep’s milk cheese from the Pyrenees;
Jeffs’ Select Gouda (turns out there are two “Jeffs”, and they make incredible Gouda); and
“Poets and Writers of Ireland” aged Irish Cheddar (a personal favorite).

 

2018 Three Sisters Vineyard Fort Ross/Seaview Pinot Noir:

Jasper Hills Farm (Vermont) “Cabot Clothbound” Cheddar; Bucheron (a goat cheese from the Loire Valley- many producers); and Gruyere- Kate said pick your favorite.

 

*Like wine, cheese is a matter of taste and preference.
We’ve had a lot of fun trying all these; if you asked for our favorite, we’d probably say we trend toward soft goat cheeses, although the “Hay There” is pretty popular in our home right now. Bon appetite!

 
Cheese Course2
 

Coming Soon...
We have some great news about our wines that we’ll be sharing later this summer. Stay tuned, and in the meantime have a great and safe summer.

 

John and Carri

Time Posted: Jul 22, 2020 at 12:59 PM Permalink to Winery News and Fun Pairings Permalink
John and Carri Holdredge
 
July 21, 2020 | John and Carri Holdredge

March 2020 Club Letter

Wine Club – March 2020

And now.....the first wines from the 2018 vintage. It’s always emotional to release new wines- we started walking the vineyards for this harvest two years ago, we vinified the grapes a year and a half ago, we bottled the wines seven months ago, and we’ve been waiting to release them since then. There is a lot of reflection that one goes through after the wine is in bottle; you wonder if the things that made the wines special to you before they went into bottle will be there when you release them. In this instance, the answer is a resounding “yes!”. This shipment covers some cool places in Sonoma County, from the Russian River Valley, to Fort Ross - Seaview, to Freestone; to say we are excited about these wines is a bit of an understatement.

Holdredge 2018 “Pratt-Sexton” Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir- New Vineyard!! Only 78 cases made. $54/btl (Club Price: $45.90)

One of the neighborhoods I’ve always wanted to work with is around Freestone. It’s an extremely cold area- it’s a pretty straight shot from Bodega/the Pacific too. The maritime influence in that area (read: cold weather) defines the wines that come from there- with brilliant acidity (grapes don’t respire as much acid in cold as they do in heat). Jim Pratt is a grower who quietly oversees some very special places- among them this vineyard on Sexton Road (hence the name Pratt-Sexton). Sexton runs south from Bodega Highway (it’s the second road east of Freestone). The vineyard is planted on a hillside at around 950-foot elevation, and in that cold climate, Dijon clones express extremely well – this is all 777.

Perhaps most distinctive about this vineyard is a savory character that runs through the wines it produces; that element defines our 2018. There is an expression in French: “sous bois”, which translates to “forest floor”, but not so much in reference to dirt- but in reference to the varying meĢlange of plants and underbrush etc.in the forest. Tasting this, I think of walking across a forest floor on a bed of pine needles- your boots never touching the soil, your jeans brushing against wild herbs. But ultimately, it’s not about what I smell as I walk through that “forest” – it’s about what I feel. Deep conifer forests have a quiet and patient voice, and this wine has that personality. It’ll be fun to watch develop, especially over the next 6-8 years, but it’s really drinking well right now. 105 cases made. Drink now until 2027.

Holdredge 2018 “Three Sisters Vineyard” Fort Ross- Seaview Pinot Noir- New Release! Only 126 cases made. $70/btl (Club Price: $59.50)

At 1250 foot elevation, this is our highest elevation vineyard- planted in weathered slate soils that seem to demand patience. In 2018, we took a chance and delayed the picking of this vineyard- even through the late September rains. I felt if we got through them in good shape, these grapes might show something even more special. Given the potential for disaster, it was a leap of faith, that in retrospect I’m glad I made (although there was definitely some nail-biting along the way!).

This wine beguiles me – not just for how it straddles elegance and power, or the flavor components, or even for the acid - which allows the wine, with all that power, to still speak with precision. But what really draws me in is an aromatic note of crushed flowers. We’ve made plenty of Pinots with floral notes- but this isn’t the aromas of rose petals or violets- it’s completely different- it’s the smell of fresh crushed flowers and it's beautiful.

What’s fun about this is that even though it has the depth and structure to pair with rich foods with bold flavors (Rack of Lamb is always a smashing pairing for wines from this vineyard; which historically was a sheep ranch), it can work equally well with a lot of other foods. We had it (to write these notes) with a selection of cheeses with a little of our “backyard” lavender-orange blossom honey drizzled on a couple of them, and it was wonderful. This one is delicious now, a little decanting for the next few months won’t hurt, and I think if you are the patient sort, you’ll be able to enjoy these for a good while. If such things matter to you (as they do to me), Carri says it’s her favorite wine we’ve made from this vineyard. 120 cases made. Drink now to 2027.

Holdredge 2018 “Petits Cadeaux” Russian River Valley Pinot Noir - New Release! Only 148 cases made. $54/btl (Club Price: $45.90)

We take multiple clones from the Martaella Vineyard and typically do two different picks a couple of weeks apart. Usually, the tiniest berry clones (90, 96, and Hanzell) compromise the biggest parts of this wine – around 80-90%. But all the fruit from there in 2018 (Pommard, Martini, and AS-8 clones) was ridiculously good, and we ended up with a blend that was only about 55% of the tiny berry clones; the other clones were just that good. It showed a lot of baby fat when it was young, but has continued to evolve into a nicely structured wine.

This vineyard has always spoken with a big voice, and the 2018 is no exception, but it has a personality that is both opulent and dignified. Walking this vineyard, I always sense its personality, which is it is somewhat apart from others on the Olivet Bench. Largely owing to topography and farming, it is the best part of that neighborhood. If you listen to the place, it's impossible not to feel that in its voice. I think that reflects in the way it presents itself, it is a big wine that somehow still has a deftness.

In terms of flavor profiles, the aromatics are very much like the 2014, but it has the mouthfeel and richness of the 2013. I tend to enjoy this wine a bit sooner than some of our others, but this one will continue to develop. 150 cases made. Drink now to 2025.

Cheers!

John & Carri Holdredge

Time Posted: Jul 21, 2020 at 4:13 PM Permalink to March 2020 Club Letter Permalink
John and Carri Holdredge
 
July 21, 2020 | John and Carri Holdredge

December 2019 Club Letter

Wine Club – December 2019

These wines are the last to be released from the 2017 vintage- and the 16 months in the bottle have had a profound impact on them. I’ve been surprised by how much these have evolved, even just since August. All of these are ready to drink now- and will handle whatever holiday foods you might pair with them. We wish you a great holiday season, filled with the love of family and friends!

Holdredge 2017 “The True” Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir- Only 101 cases made. $50/btl (Club Price: $42.50) The early season heat that hammered Sonoma County in late August was least influential in the Annapolis area, where this wine is grown. The closest proximity to the ocean of all the sites we work within the “true” Sonoma Coast allowed what marine influence there was to keep things moderate. The grapes had barely begun veraison at that time, so they were able to shrug off the heat, and the flavors and sugars developed after the heat, and at a rather moderate pace.

In the glass, it is initially the most red-fruit and floral driven wine from this vineyard that nature has given us for a few years. But as it opens in the glass, deeper-toned aromatics emerge. While it initially seems a medium-bodied wine, with some time in the glass, a ton of richness emerges. It’s really quite graceful, and even some very fine tannins coat the palate (the result of a LOT of hand punch-downs!) Drink now, although we are still decanting it- a little air makes for a world of happiness. It should continue to develop over the next 7-8 years. 94 points- Jeb Dunnuck

Holdredge 2017 “Saralee’s Vineyard” Russian River Valley Pinot Noir - Only 95 cases made. $50/btl (Club Price: $42.50) If you know our story, you know our journey into Pinot began at Saralee’s Vineyard in 2001. We lived just down the road, we knew and loved Saralee, and our son learned to fish in her ponds when he was almost 4- so the place carries some real meaning, besides growing delicious grapes. Saralee passed in 2014, but Jackson Family Wines (La Crema) now own the vineyard and are kind enough to sell us grapes.

When we finally opened our first bottle of this vintage, the first entry in my tasting notes says it all: “Classic SL”. It has the lifted red fruit, round mid-palate, and nice palate weight we always get from there- and to me, it is quintessential Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. While this is always a wine that is delicious when young, it always develops a ton of nuance in the bottle. As we tasted the bottle (Ok, “drank”), I kept thinking about past vintages- and the 2017 is very reminiscent of the 2005, which was (and is) one of my favorite wines from that vineyard. I expect it to offer great drinking pleasure to 2028. I think it really captures the voice of this place, which has, over the years, become a good friend of mine.

Holdredge 2017 “Rolling Thunder” Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir - New Release! Only 123 cases made. $50/btl (Club Price: $42.50) The two strains of Pinot we take from this vineyard (Pommard and 828), situated on a mountain top outside Occidental, are completely different, from bud break to cluster morphology, to the flavor profile. We usually pick them from 8-10 days apart, and vinify them separately, and barrel and keep them separate until blending. The 828 (picked first) was excellent, but the Pommard just seemed to have something very special. As I kept tasting the Pommard in barrel, I kept asking myself, “can this really be this good?” In a word, yes. As good as the 828 was, and it was really good, the more Pommard we worked into the blend, the more we liked the wine. The 2017 is 93% Pommard clone (the most we’ve ever used).

True to its name and place, this is a full-bodied wine that is all about power on the one hand but without sacrificing a sense of elegance. The aromatics cover a broad spectrum, from candied dark cherries and black tea to violets and dried orange rind notes. There is a purity about it- with tremendous focus, a concentrated mid-palate, and some ultra-fine tannins. Though full-bodied, it is really quite complete- a balanced wine that one person said: “just glides over the palate”. Indeed. Drink now until 2026. 93 Points-Jeb Dunnuck

Holdredge 2017 “Upper Elevations” Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir - New Release!
Only 101 cases made. $60/btl (Club Price: $51) This is our blend from three of the “true” Sonoma Coast vineyards we work with: Martinelli “Three Sisters” Vineyard (Fort Ross Seaview- 2nd ridge in from the Pacific, Josephine Soils at elevation 1260); the Campbell Ranch (Annapolis- 2nd ridge in from the Pacific, Goldridge soils at elevation 750); and the “Riddle Ranch” (Occidental area, 3rd Ridge in from the Pacific, Goldridge soils at elevation 950).Each of these places has a distinctive character- Martinelli for its notes of lifted red fruit and silky palate; Campbell (the True), which straddles power and elegance; and Riddle Ranch (“Rolling Thunder”), a consistent testament to power. The final blend is 38% “Three Sisters”, 29% “The True, and 33% “Rolling Thunder” (the 2016 was only 9% Rolling Thunder).

When we tasted it in late October, Carri’s first comment was “wow, that just absolutely jumps out of the glass!”, and it really does. The aromatics are a wonderful mix of black cherries, red licorice, and very ripe strawberries. The mouthfeel is rich and expansive, and to call it “silky” only captures part of its appeal. Although at any given moment I might identify aspects from one of the wines in the blend, moments later I might identify an aspect of a different wine. It continues to evolve in the glass and is simply delicious right now. Drink now until 2027.

Cheers!

John & Carri Holdredge

Time Posted: Jul 21, 2020 at 4:10 PM Permalink to December 2019 Club Letter Permalink
John and Carri Holdredge
 
July 21, 2020 | John and Carri Holdredge

September 2019 Club Letter

Wine Club – Fall 2019

So much to say, so little space to say it in. Having just bottled the 2018s, and waiting for the 2019 harvest to start (we’re ready!!), it’s been fun to re-visit these wines from 2017 as we assembled this club shipment. We are including three Pinots; two of which have been part of our lineup for some time, the third of which is newer to the mix, somewhat iconic, and has already garnered a following. We round it out with the last “Schioppettino” we will be releasing for a while, but this one is a doozy! We continue to be grateful for the many blessings in our lives; and we hope these wines convey how we feel about this very special place we call home.

Holdredge 2017 “Judgment Tree” Russian River Valley Pinot Noir - New Release Only 102 cases made. $70/btl (Club Price: $59.50)

In 2017, I may have walked Rochioli more than any other vineyard we work with. I just wasn’t feeling like it was ready- I liked the flavors a lot, but it just wasn’t speaking to me. Then one morning in mid-September, on my way back from vineyard checks on the coast, I stopped by for a quick taste, though I wasn’t expecting much difference. It was a classic cool Russian River morning, and as I walked uphill through the profound “hush” that only a heavy fog can bring, it felt like there wasn’t another being in the universe as far as I could tell. At that moment, I finally heard the vineyard. We picked the following day.

This wine was one of those that made itself in many ways. It was slow to start fermenting (native yeasts sometimes have their own thoughts), and finished slowly too, with really good extraction; the total time on the skins was 24 days. Early on, it showed a fair amount of grip which is typical of that vineyard, but I’ve learned to be patient there, as the tannins always resolve into very fine tannins. While this wine has plenty of red fruit, it isn’t at all “candied”, it’s really more of a mulled fruit note- and those superfine tannins really carry the finish, which lasts a good while. I plan on drinking this over the next 7-9 years.

Holdredge 2017 Sonoma Mountain Pinot Noir- “Steiner-Dry Stack Vineyards” - New Release Only 95 cases made. $50/btl (Club Price: $42.50)

This is the second wine we’ve blended from these two vineyards (we’ve worked with Steiner since 2012), and I continue to be drawn into the dynamic of blending wines from two very distinctive sites on the same slope of the mountain. Dry Stack (lower slopes) came in quite early (second wine in the barn), and showed a pretty dynamic (exuberant) personality from day one. The Steiner (upper slopes), true to its place, was picked three weeks later and has always been darker, more pensive, and broader across the palate. In the blend, the Dry Stack provided a

focused core of red fruit, while Steiner lent richness to the palate. This year we blended slightly more Dry Stack into the blend; as we added more, we just liked the resulting structure of the wine even more. If you like aromatics of strawberries, cherries, and dried flowers, you’ll love this one. The 2016 took a while to reveal itself- but ended up as one of the “crowd favorites” of all the 2016s. Drink now and for the next 6-8 years.

Holdredge 2017 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir – Bucher Vineyard New Release Only 125 cases made. $50/btl (Club Price: $42.50)

In a way, this wine reflects a full circle at Bucher. Our first wine from there in 2006 was all from the “Pear Tree” block- the northernmost block at Bucher (about a 1⁄2 mile north of the ranch entrance). Pear Tree is planted almost entirely to clone 667 and has always been the backbone of our wines from Bucher. Beginning in 2008, we began getting grapes from other parts of the ranch, which have been used in varying amounts over the years. 2017 marked a return to 100% Pear Tree block- it is simply better by itself, and no amount of blending gave us a better wine.

This definitely shows full ripeness, with a darker color than the others in this release. The red fruit is more to the dark cherry side of things, and the telltale rose petal aromatic note we get from Bucher is darker as well. It definitely is fleshy in the palate, but still holds the finish. This summer, we’ve been having it with a lot of grilled meats (it’s amazing how well a boneless pork chop and this wine go together). We are definitely enjoying it now- but it should continue to develop nicely for another 5-7 years.

Oscuro 2016 Dry Creek Valley “Schioppettino” - New Release!
Only 84 cases made. $45/btl (Club Price: $38.25) In 2004, we made and released the very first Schioppettino in North American history. It has been a lot of fun learning about this grape, and it opened us to some other amazing Cal-Ital wine possibilities. But our growing portfolio of Pinot places serious demands on our winemaking time and energy, so with some sadness, I must report that this may be the last Schioppettino we make for a while (although Carri has pointed out that I sometimes go to “Happyland”- which she says is at the junction of no business sense and no impulse control; so never say never).

But if we gotta say “ciao”, this is the vintage to do it with- talk about going out with a bang – this wine just smacks you in the face with a noted of cracked pepper, followed by mulberries, dark cherries, and blackberries. It is at once rich and focused, but I think it expresses luxuriousness as much as anything. Over the years, we’ve marveled at how versatile this wine is with food. Last night, I harvested some late potatoes, onions, parsley, and a few green beans from the garden, cooked some bacon, and made a simple potato salad with a little olive oil and the slightest hint of vinegar. Just wonderful. You’ll be able to enjoy this wine with food (or by itself) for the next 6-9 years.

Cheers!

John & Carri Holdredge

Time Posted: Jul 21, 2020 at 4:05 PM Permalink to September 2019 Club Letter Permalink
 

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